A Philospher's Guide to Composting Condoms

Posted by: Derek Lowstuter, Mountain Region Extension

Can a likely made-up story about a famous Greek philosopher help us decide if something should be added to our compost pile?  The answer, much like the question, may surprise you. In a viral story about the Stoic philosopher, Socrates is credited with creating three questions we should ask ourselves before speaking. These “Three Filters” are: Is it True? Is it Good? Is it Necessary?  

These questions can help us understand the potential impact of what we say - before we say it. While this is especially important in an election year, the idea can also help us decide if we should add something to our compost pile. Just because something can be said doesn’t mean that it should be said. Likewise, just because something can be composted doesn’t mean that it should be composted. We can ask ourselves the three questions to help us make those decisions:

Is it True? / Does it decompose?

Is it Good? / Does it improve the compost? And,

Is it Necessary? / Does it need to be composted?

The title of this post wasn’t just to get your attention. I have been asked if all kinds of things can be composted: kitty litter, dryer lint, pet hair, cotton undies, and yes – even latex condoms. Many types of waste are biodegradable and can decompose naturally. However, that alone doesn’t make them good additions to the compost pile.

Let's look at dryer lint as an example of how we can apply the three questions.

Is it True? / Does it decompose? Dryer lint may decompose, depending on the clothes it comes from. Yes, clothes made from natural fibers, such as 100% cotton and wool, produce dryer lint that will decompose in home compost. However, synthetic (plastic) fibers, like polyester or nylon, produce lint full of microplastic pollution that does not decompose.

Is it Good? / Does it improve the compost?  Yes, dryer lint from natural fibers breaks down into organic matter and releases small amounts of plant-available nutrients. However, microplastics in lint from synthetic fibers can fill soil pores and even make their way into the food we grow.    

Is it Necessary? / Does it need to be composted? No, because there are usually other easy ways to dispose of dryer lint. If composting isn’t needed for disposal, then we shouldn’t compost it. Many clothes are made with natural and synthetic fiber blends, which can make it difficult to tell what is in dryer lint. Lint failed the three filters and should not be composted.   

Here are some other examples that could be composted – but should they?

Condoms made with natural latex can be biodegradable but are classified as medical waste, don’t benefit compost when added, and can be easily thrown in the trash. Practice safe compost. 

Wood ash has been used as a mineral fertilizer for thousands of years; however, it can harm compost and soil if overapplied – especially in Colorado’s alkaline soils. 

Animal waste from meat-eaters does decompose but can spread disease and complicate compost management. 

Cooked food waste decomposes quickly, but can attract pests, and promote anaerobic (stinky) compost conditions. 

Diseased plants (ex. tomato blight, powdery mildew) can be composted in active compost that is regularly turned and allowed to go through recommended heating cycles and curing. If you are lazy when it comes to turning your compost *sheepishly raises own hand* it would be safer to take infected plants to a commercial compost facility or create a separate static compost pile that isn’t used on annual crops. Nutrients and beneficial microbes in finished compost have been shown to help plants defend against pests and diseases, but care should be taken when potentially spreading diseases in compost.

To Compost or Not to Compost...

Composting is a simple, powerful tool for turning waste into value for our gardens. When well-managed, compost has been shown to improve soil and plant health, and even increase the nutritional value of produce. The “Three Filters” can help us boost compost benefits and reduce potential issues. 

Remember to ask yourself, 
Is it True? 
Is it Good? 

Is it Necessary?

                                       Happy Composting

From Dirt to Soil

 If you're ever in a room of soil scientists, I would recommend that you think twice before using the word "dirt". Dirt and soil are not the same thing (i.e., dirt is devoid of any life, while soil is teeming with life), and some people will get quite upset if you interchange the two words (for the record, I am not one of these people). Case in point: I happened to meet someone who had gone on a first date with one of my colleagues. He told me that the date was going well, but as soon as he used the word "dirt", my colleague's mood completely changed, the date quickly came to an end, and he never heard from my colleague again. So, if you want to make it to a second date with a soil scientist, make sure you're using the word "dirt" correctly...or maybe just don't use that word at all.

Anyways, perhaps you have a garden that is, quite literally, made of crummy, old dirt. Or, more likely, it's made of poor quality soil. Do you abandon all hope in having a healthy and fruitful garden? Do you scrap your life here and move to the Midwest in pursuit of more fertile soil??? No! There is another way to attain a thriving, productive garden, and that is through the regeneration of your soil. 

Soils can generally be characterized by two things: soil texture and soil structure. Soil texture refers to the proportion of sand, silt, and clay within a soil. This proportion governs the characteristics of a soil, such as its nutrient-holding capacity, drainage rates, and affinity for compaction. I'm sure many of you will resonate with the challenges of highly clayey soils, which are prone to slow water drainage, limited oxygen availability, and compaction.

Unfortunately, there is no practical way to change a soil's texture at scale. The good news, however, is that a soil's innate behaviors can be adjusted by altering the soil structure, which refers to the arrangement of soil particles. Specifically, you want to promote the arrangement of your soil particles into aggregates.

Basically, aggregates are clumps of soil particles that are bound together by organic matter, fungal hyphae, and roots. Not only do they increase the resiliency of soils to disturbance and create microhabitats that support diverse microbial life, but they also help increase water-holding capacity in sandy soils (organic matter acts like a sponge) and increase water/air infiltration in clayey soils (by increasing pore space). 

Conceptual Diagram of a Macroaggregate; Source: Soil Processes and the Carbon Cycle by Jastrow and Miller, 1998.

To increase aggregation in your garden, and thus improve your soil structure, there are several tactics you can take:

1. Incorporate organic matter into your soils using amendments such as manure, biosolids, plant-based compost, and/or coconut coir. The goal is to reach a soil organic matter content of 5% in your soils (contrary to popular belief, you don't want more than 5%). Take caution if applying organic matter amendments that are high in salts, such as manure and biosolids, as high salts can damage plants and soil structure. Before applying any organic matter amendment, it's best to do a soil test on your garden soils to understand the current levels of organic matter and salts present, which will inform how much amendment to apply.
2. Grow cover crops when soils are bare (e.g., during the off-season). Cover crops will add organic matter into the soil through their roots, and they can be an additional source of organic matter if the cover crops, upon dying, are left on the ground or incorporated into the soil. Cover crops will also protect the soil from erosion and can add nitrogen into the soil if the cover crop is a legume.
3. Mulch around your plants. Mulch will conserve soil moisture, help control weeds, and ultimately add organic matter into the soil as the mulch breaks down over time. Organic sources of mulch include wood chips, straw, or grass clippings. If using straw or grass clippings, take into consideration whether any herbicides have been used or if weed seeds might be present.
4. Reduce disturbance of your soils. While some disturbance may be necessary when incorporating organic matter amendments, frequent or intense disturbances can ultimately degrade soil structure. As a result, consider using less invasive ways of amending (i.e., a broad fork instead of rototilling) and avoid tilling unless you're adding organic matter.

Whether you attempt one of these tactics or all four, remember that it takes time for soil structure to improve. Be patient and diligent in your commitment to regenerating your soils, and over the years you will reap the benefits! 

Have questions about soil regeneration? Ask them below!

Don't Forget About Mulch!

If there is one tip I could give for just about any landscape situation, it would be mulch. Mulching is a great thing to do for your soil and your plants, and a great natural way to keep weeds down. There are many types of mulch and using them correctly can be beneficial for many reasons.

A mulch is a material that is applied to the soil surface. Mulches function to protect and improve soil. Different types of mulch have different advantages for your landscape. Generally speaking, mulches reduce the amount of moisture that evaporates from the soil, which conserves water. Mulching a planting bed can reduce the need to water by 50%. Mulches also stabilize soil temperature. This can be beneficial for shallow rooted plants that are susceptible to freeze damage during the winter. Many mulches will help improve the structure and fertility of the soils they are added to. For some types of mulch this may require mixing them into the soil at some point during the year. One of my biggest gardening battles has been with controlling weeds. Mulch can inhibit the germination of weed seeds, which is a big help! Your trees will also benefit from mulching around the trunk. Trees that have mulch around their trunks grow larger and healthier than trees that have turf growing all the way to their base. The mulch “donut” should be two to three feet wide. Leave two to four inches of bare ground near the base of the trunk, if it is touching the trunk it increases the chance of your tree suffering from girdling roots. There are two categories of mulch, organic and inorganic. The difference between the two is that organic mulches were once alive, and inorganic mulches were not. Grass clippings are an easily obtainable organic mulch. They are perfect to mulch a vegetable bed. Add a 1/4-inch-thick layer and let it dry before adding the next layer. Adding a couple sheets of newspaper (avoid glossy sheets) under the clippings will give extra defense against weed seeds. Make sure you are not using clippings that have been treated with herbicides, which can be harmful to your vegetable plants.

Wood chips are another popular choice of organic mulch. They are good for areas that do not need the soil worked every year, such as between raised beds or in perennial plantings. They are better suited for the soil surface, working them into the soil (without composting them first) can tie up soil nitrogen, leaving an insufficient amount for your plants.

Pea gravel is an example of an inorganic mulch. It is visually appealing in a landscape area where you don’t have plants, or where your plantings are permanent. It can cause heat to build up around plants, however, which may increase water requirements, so it is better suited for water wise, heat tolerant plants.

Healthy Soil- Too much of a good thing?

Recently I attended our annual forum where all the Extension staff across the state come together and we learn and share.  The sharing of programs, county issues and among us plant folk, plant and soil issues are the most telling.  There seems to be a common theme this year, gardens being over amended and a misunderstanding of organics and fertilizer versus compost is evident.  Both compost and fertilizer can be organic, but they are not the same thing. 

Compost image, Colorado State

I want to point out before I go further, that Extension and Extension staff have conventional and organic options on all our factsheets and that we all care about our environment, it’s why we have the jobs we do because we are passionate about our world.  I think it is very important understand and get the facts about your soil prior to adding amendment or fertilizer.  This is very similar to practicing IPM- Integrated pest management where you observe / monitor, proper id, learn more about the issue (or system), determine action, choose tactic(s), evaluate.  IPM is monitoring the situation, gathering the facts and doing something when needed.  https://cmg.extension.colostate.edu/wp-content/uploads/sites/59/2020/01/GN-100-Integrated-Pest-Management.pdf  So think of these similar steps in your landscape and how to improve your soil.  Get the facts before applying anything and to improve when you need to improve, plant the right plant in the right place and you will be successful.  If you have never done a soil test, this is the foundation of the garden and a good place to start.  The CSU lab is currently moving so not testing currently, other great laboratories that understand our Western soils are Ward Laboratories https://www.wardlab.com/, Servitech https://servitech.com/crop-consulting/soil-sampling and American Agricultural Laboratory Inc. https://www.amaglab.com/

Once you pick a lab, stick with them as their procedures might be slightly different.  You want to be able to compare apples to apples down the road.  Please read how to take an appropriate sample and tell them exactly what you are planting (your crop): buffalo grass, tomatoes, plum tree- the more specific you are, the better the recommendation they can give you.

	University of Hawaii Soil Management

Let’s go back to the word organic.  It was first used to describe the organic matter (basically plant material: leaves, roots, stems, & microorganisms) that is in the soil.  We still use it this way, but it has also morphed into products that are naturally based.  Here I am sticking to the original definition.  Our native soils in Western Colorado are naturally 1-2% organic matter.  This is why our native plants do not prefer high amounts of compost being added to our soil, it’s not what they are acclimated to.  Then somewhere along the way organic morphed into meaning using naturally sourced fertilizers and pesticides.  We know from experience and as shown in the soil pie chart that we want up to 5% organic matter in the soil for the general typical landscape plants and vegetable and flower gardens.  When soil test results get closer to this 5% organic matter, the need for nutrients like nitrogen will drop because it is being released of some nutrients from the organic matter (plant based and microorganisms).  This article from Minnesota gives a good explanation of other reasons too much organic matter is not good.  https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/compost-and-soil-organic-matter-more-merrier Of course our soil is going to be different, but the having too much organic matter is the same.  We general have good minerals (phosphorus, potassium, sulfur) in our soils.  Occasionally we will see a micronutrient low due to the pH of the soil, high pH affects the accessibility of certain nutrients to specific plants.  Example: Silver maples have trouble accessing iron in high pH soils resulting in chlorosis.  Adding more iron to the soil doesn’t work unless it is chelated. 

Microbes in the soil, invisible to the naked eye-

                                                                    Colorado State
Example 2: Someone was having trouble growing vegetables, since the pH was high they continued to add sulfur, which was already at a good level.  This caused a toxicity of sulfur in the soil which causes a reduced rate of growth and necrosis.  Since we have high amounts of calcium carbonate in our soils and there already is enough sulfur, our soils are buffered which means it is very hard to change the pH so we focus on what we can change and improve.  So please do a soil sample, talk to Extension if you need more explanation, pick the right plants for your soil and you will be successful. 

Lastly, pick the right soil amendment if your organic matter is below 5%.  This includes using compost and it is ok to ask for a sample of compost and have it tested before you buy or use it.  Compost is a soil amendment, though it may help with nutrients down the road, it is not considered fertilizer or a major source of nutrients. https://extension.colostate.edu/topic-areas/yard-garden/choosing-a-soil-amendment/

If your plants are needing fertilizer, than use the appropriate fertilizer. Here is understanding fertilizer.

https://cmg.extension.colostate.edu/Gardennotes/232.pdf

Hopefully that helps in understanding that you can have TOO MUCH of a good thing.  It is like finding out that watermelon is good for you and you eat the whole watermelon, you might not feel so good afterwards.  It is important to keep things in balance.  By adding too much of one thing, other things have to become out of balance.  Look back at the soil pie chart, if there is too much water, there would be less air.  If too much organic matter, there would be less mineral particles, water or oxygen.  ALL are important. 

So hopefully if nothing else, you will do a soil sample and think about what your soil needs before you add something.

Susan Carter, Tri River Area Horticulture and Natural Resource Agent

 

 

Leaf mold – sounds bad, but it’s a good thing! By Irene Shonle, El Paso County Horticulture

 

October’s cooler days and longer nights means that deciduous trees lose their leave--and gardeners must somehow deal with them. While many homeowners rake them and put them out for pickup, I recommend you not waste this valuable resource.

Bags of leaves- what a waste to haul them off

Past blog articles have discussed some excellent ways of dealing with leaves, including mulching them into your lawn (http://csuhort.blogspot.com/2014/10/ugh-dealing-with-leaves-in-fall.html), or other composting or mulching projects (http://csuhort.blogspot.com/2018/10/uses-for-fall-leaves.html_ and http://csuhort.blogspot.com/2015/10/leaves-are-finally-falling.html).   A way to use leaves that hasn’t been addressed is making leaf mold. This sounds a bit off-putting, but it is a genius way to put leaves to good use. Leaf mold is essentially cold-composted leaves that break down due to the action of fungi rather than bacteria.

 Leaf mold is a valuable soil conditioner. It improves water holding capacity (something we all need in arid Colorado) because it can improve water retention in soils by up to 50%. It also improves the structure of the soil by lightening it and improving microbial activity. While it does add trace nutrients, it really isn’t considered to be a fertilizer – so additions of compost or other fertilizer is still a good idea, based on soil tests.

Leaf mold ready to use -Pepin County Extension

Creating leaf mold is simple. You can either create a large leaf corral (create the enclosure with wire or wood), and pile the leaves in there. You want to have a fairly big pile of leaves for best decomposition – a pile at least 3 foot wide and 3 feet tall is the minimum (or around 20-25 bags full). Thoroughly moisten the pile and let it sit, adding water and turning periodically. You can also keep the leaves in black plastic garbage bags, again adding water and poking some holes for air. This method may take up to a year, so be sure you have an out-of-the-way space for this. It can also be helpful to add a shovel full of compost to each bag.

Corralling leaves and moistening them - U Texas Plant clinic

 For fastest decomposition, shred the leaves before adding them to the pile. This can be done with your lawn mower, a shredder, a string trimmer or even jumping up and down on the dry leaves. Shredding the leaves will also reduce the space they take up, and will keep the leaves from matting together. Using freshly fallen leaves will also give decomposition a jump start. Freshly fallen leaves have a carbon-to-nitrogen ratio in the range of 30 to 1, which promotes  quick decomposition. Old leaves, including those that have been on the ground for just a few weeks, will have already lost most of their nitrogen content.

Leaf mold is ready to use when it's soft and crumbly. My favorite way to use it is as a mulch and or amendment in my vegetable garden (no weed seeds here!), about 2- 3 inches thick.  Leaf mold will not steal nitrogen from the plants around it because its already decomposed. You can also add it to new garden beds,  in containers to lighten the soil and improve water retention, or as a mulch around perennials. 

Leaf mold as vegetable garden mulch

There are so many uses for leaf mold, you might find yourself stealing your neighbor’s bagged leaves in addition to all of your leaves!

Debunking the Myths of Soil Amendments

Posted by: Robert Sanchez, Douglas County Colorado Master Gardener

As we get the outdoor itch from being cooped up all winter as a result of from the pandemic and cold weather, some of us think about going to the local nursery to purchase compost, peat moss, manure, and other soil amendments to get ready for gardening. These are all important elements of gardening but amending the soil has so many misconceptions I thought I would address a few. First, let’s look at the science.

The ideal soil consists of about 25 percent air, 25 percent water, about 45 to 47 percent mineral matter, and about 3 to 5 percent organic matter. Soil texture and soil structure are also important elements. Soil texture refers to the size of particles that make up the soil, including large particles of coarse sand, medium particles of silt, and small particles of fine clay. The larger the particle, the more space for air, but too many large particles allow water to drain away. Thus, coarse sand by itself is not a good growing medium for roots. Scientists refer to the ability of roots to grow in soil as soil tilth. Soil structure refers to how the various particles of sand, silt, and clay fit together. A good soil has a mixture of various sized particles with various chemical and biological components that bind the particles into aggregates. An ideal soil allows air for microbial activity and root growth and retains water. Organic matter in the soil does increase water-holding capacity in the soil.

Now let’s explore a few myths about soil amendments.

Myth #1: Amending the soil will change the nature of the soil. We have notoriously clayey and alkaline (high pH) soil in the Front Range. Adding compost to the soil will not change the nature of the soil. Changing the nature of the soil requires either changing a little bit of the soil over a period of years, such as what nature does on a geologic time scale, or replacing the soil entirely in one fell swoop. The home gardener can speed up the geologic time scale by making changes faster than nature would do, but changes to the nature of the soil would still require years. We can see what it takes to change the nature of the soil by observing new building construction. Typically, construction crews excavate several feet of soil to install utilities and the building infrastructure, removing the top layer of soil that contains most of the dead and living organic matter. As the crews replace the soil to continue with construction, the organic matter is no longer near the surface, living matter has been destroyed, construction debris (gypsum, sand, concrete, and wood) has been added, and crews have pulverized the soil, snuffing out what little life or air that might have survived the onslaught. This process illustrates what it takes to change the nature of the soil. Even adding a lot of compost to a hole when planting does not change the nature of the soil, except for the soil you replaced in the hole, and that is only temporary because the organic matter in the compost will decompose, leaving only the natural soil and decomposed remnants.

Myth #2: Adding lots of compost during planting promotes root growth and plant health. Adding organic matter when planting does indeed promote root growth, but it may not result in a healthier plant. The ideal soil only contains 3 to 5 percent organic matter and filling a hole with 25 percent organic matter (or more) when planting is not ideal. Under good watering and sunlight conditions, the initial results of all that compost appear good. That is, roots show vigorous growth and the canopy of the plant responds accordingly. Then the roots hit the edge of the hole and encounter natural soil with less compost in it. Preferring the compost to the natural soil, the roots circle back into the compost, resulting in a condition called “girdling” roots. The result is an unhealthy lack of spread of the roots into the natural soil. When the compost you initially placed in the hole decomposes, the roots will actually have less access to nutrients because they have not extended their reach beyond the now decomposed compost to absorb more nutrients. In addition, the different soil textures inhibit the natural flow of water, so water falling on one soil texture may not flow into soil with a different texture, leaving some soil dry. Specifically, water cohesion allows water to coat soil and mineral particles, which is one reason organic matter retains water so well. Water moves through fine clay soil through capillary action. Thus, water does not readily move from organic material to clay or from clay to organic material because of the different processes facilitating water movement. Different soil textures do not promote root growth.

Myth #3: Enough application of compost will solve most soil problems. If a planted plant dies, an incorrect assumption is that it did not have enough organic matter. Organic matter is a necessary element for root development and plant health, but it cannot solve all soil problems. Drainage, compaction, sunlight, microclimates, and salt buildup are all problems with soils that organic matter might not necessarily help your plant overcome. In fact, adding too much organic matter, particularly manures, could increase salt buildup in the soil. Soil amendments can be deceptive because in the short term, the added benefits can be seen in the growth of the above-ground portion and overall apparent vigor of the plant, but over the long term, the detriments could outweigh the benefits. Applying organic matter is one aspect of gardening. However, managing other cultural practices, such as planting the right plant in the right place for the drainage, soil conditions, and sunlight, is no less important.

The takeaway from all this is to understand the holistic needs of plants in your garden. Amending the soil is one important part of the holistic view but understanding what it does and does not do can help you attend to your plants much better. For more information on soil amendments, see https://cmg.extension.colostate.edu/Gardennotes/210.pdf.

The Basics of Composting

Published by Kara Harders, Small Acreage Management Specialist 

Composting is a natural process we can utilize to help break down and recycle materials which would have otherwise been considered trash or waste. Materials including food scraps, garden byproducts, and other organic “trash” can become the magical soil amendment we know as compost!

Because composting is a natural process, it can be induced by following some basic rules and creating ideal conditions for the process to happen. While people may think they are the ones composting it is really bacteria, fungi, molds, and worms doing all the heavy lifting. When we compost it is important to keep these organisms happy and healthy so they can do what they do best, turn trash into soil gold! Luckily, they only need a few things to do what they do best.

Food! (Nitrogen and carbon rich)

These composting critters work best when given about a 30:1 Carbon to Nitrogen ratio. The carbon source could be dead plants, bedding, grass clipping, leaves or even shredded office paper. The nitrogen source could be fresh grass cuttings, food scraps or animal manure.

Moisture

Like all living things, water is essential to the life in your compost heap. Most of the organisms breaking down materials in your compost pile live in the film of moisture around the “ingredients” in the pile. Too little moisture and they will die or become dormant and too much moisture and they will drown (and the pile will smell BAD). Aim for a pile that feels damp, like a wrung-out sponge. If the pile gets too dry spray it lightly with a garden hose and try to keep it covered with a tarp in a shady area to retain moisture and to keep out heavy rains. 

Form

Compost needs to be grouped to maintain moisture and heat; therefore, the structure of your compost needs to be in a heap of sorts. This may seem obvious, but there are a few critical details.

Consider where you are putting your pile, avoid spots in direct sunlight for much of the day as this can dry out your pile. You should also avoid areas where water collects or drains. Compost piles are rich in nutrients that can be harmful to water ways and contribute to nutrient pollution. Think about keeping water from running through the pile when it rains or snow melts.

An ideal size is about on cubic yard, a pile this size can be built over time (cool composting) or all at once (hot composting), a benefit to doing hot composting is the sterilization of some weed seeds. Large heaps made all at once with the correct balance of materials and moisture can break down materials so fast the internal temperatures of these piles can reach 160ºF! Smaller piles wont hold heat as well and can dry out quickly if done outside of a container, but they will be easier to turn. Speaking of turning…

Aeration

All those composting organisms you are after also need to breath, in addition to design, to get them oxygen you will need to “turn” the pile.

Ideally, your compost pile will sit on some coarse materials to help allow air travel in from the base. When setting up the pile make an effort to use materials which create air pockets, such as stems, stalks, wood chips and other rigid materials. These will help to draw air up and out of the pile.

Use a composting thermometer to gauge the inside temperature. When it reaches 140ºF, give it a turn and water as needed. Turning the compost will also help get air to the organisms doing the dirty work. You can turn the compost as often as the temperature reaches 140ºF. It is recommended to let the pile go through three heating cycles to help sterilize weed seeds.

Particle size

While it is not always possible or realistic to select items for your compost pile by size it can make it more efficient. Because the organisms breaking down material work on the outer surface of the composted materials, they work much quicker when the surface area is large in relation to the particle size’s mass, in other words, small pieces break down much faster. You can mulch logs/branches, cut stalks to less than 5”, mow leaves with the lawn mower, and break up manure clumps.

 

Gardening During Pregnancy

 By: Sherie Caffey, Horticulture Agent, CSU Extension-Pueblo County

Due to my current state, I have done a lot of research this year on the do’s and don’ts of pregnancy. While looking at a long list of don’ts one day this spring, I saw something I never considered and did not want to see, pregnant women shouldn’t garden!? That was not good news. However, being someone who loves to see the research, I decided to dig deeper and look into some papers on the matter. Here’s what I found out…

One of the big risks to pregnant women in the garden is Toxoplasmosis, an infection caused by a protozoan often found in soils and cat feces. 90% of all people who would become infected with the protozoan would experience no symptoms at all. The other 10% might experience things like fever and headaches. It’s not a huge deal for an adult, but can be very damaging to a fetus. Studies have shown that this infection passed on to a fetus can cause things like miscarriage, mental retardation, microcephaly, and seizures for the little one, scary stuff.

This is toxoplasmosis under a microscope

In order to contract this disease from your garden soil, a couple of things would have to happen. First of all, the protozoan would have to be present in the soil, most likely through an outdoor, hunting cat defecating there. Even if there is no visual evidence of cat feces in the soil, the protozoan remains infective for up to a year. Second, the gardening mom to be with a contaminated hand would have to touch said hand to her mouth for the protozoan to enter her system. Studies have found that religiously wearing gloves while gardening, and thoroughly washing hands after contact with soil greatly reduces the risk of contracting the disease. You can also become infected by consuming unwashed garden produce, so be sure you have those veggie scrubbers handy!

So cute...and potentially full of toxoplasmosis

Another concern that might come up for a pregnant gardener is exposure to pesticides in the garden. The risk really depends on which pesticide we’re talking about and how much exposure you’ve had to it. A baby’s developing brain, nervous system, and organs can be very sensitive to exposure to pesticides, so it is a good idea to minimize exposure as much as possible. Everyone, but especially expectant mothers, should use Integrated Pest Management (IPM) to eliminate garden pests in the least hazardous manner. There is usually always a cultural or biological control method that does not involve using chemicals. If pesticides must be used, it is best if someone else can apply them. Find the least toxic option for your problem and be sure to wear gloves, clothing that covers your skin, and potentially a mask when working in an area where pesticides were used.

Stay away Mama!

So it seems to me with a little forethought and caution, moms to be can still enjoy working in the garden. A little sunshine and activity will be good for you and baby, just take precautions to keep your bundle of joy safe and sound.

Herb Gardening 101

By Sherie Caffey, Horticulture Coordinator, CSU Extension-Pueblo County

Herb gardens are great. They are one of the most useful, and versatile types of gardens you can grow. Outdoors, herbs can bring beauty, fragrance, and flavor to your landscape. Indoors, herbs can brighten up your home and give your cooking a fresh kick in the dog days of summer or the dead of winter.

Whether you are growing an herb garden indoors or out, light is a very important factor to consider. Generally, it is ideal to give your herbs a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight per day. Western and southern exposures are ideal. Indoors, if you do not have a west or south facing window to put your herb garden in, you will likely need supplemental lighting. There are many great grow lights that can be purchased, but they can be a little pricey. To keep it cheap, you can use two 40 watt white fluorescent bulbs, and leave them on your plants for about 14 hours per day. Keep the bulbs about six to twelve inches away from the plants.

Soil is another important thing to consider. Here in Colorado, we tend to have alkaline soil that is often low in organic matter. Outdoors, before planting your herb garden, you can mix in plant based compost to a depth of about 24 inches. This will help to build organic matter and give your herbs a light dose of nutrients as well. For herbs in containers, you can use a soilless media, which is readily available at many garden centers. There are also soil mixes, but you should be sure it is free of weed seeds, insects, and diseases.

 

Water may be the most important consideration to make when growing a great herb garden. You should check the plant tag for the herbs you buy, or do some research, to figure out what their water requirements are. Plant herbs next to each other that have similar water requirements. Drip irrigation is preferable for in ground gardens, because overhead watering tends to promote disease. Containers will usually require more watering than in ground gardens. The amount of water depends on the size and material of the container, the type of plant, and the environment the plant is in. Water containers at the base of the plant, and try to avoid splashing the leaves. Overwatering your herbs makes your chances of attracting pests or getting fungal diseases much greater.

Harvesting your herbs may be the most exciting part of herb gardening. Outdoors, harvest in the morning on a sunny day with no rain, after the dew has dried. Indoors, harvesting can be done whenever the herbs are needed. It is generally best to harvest the outer leaves first. Never take more than one third of a perennial plant at a time, and for annuals, leave at least four inches of plant, along with some greenery and growth nodules so you can have more harvests. If you plan to use the leaves of the plant, you should pinch off any flowers that grow. The plant will put more energy into the flowers once they appear, and the leaves will be less flavorful. If you want to use the flowers, such as lavender or chamomile, or the seeds, like coriander (cilantro plant), then you should leave the flowers there, but harvest any leaves you want to use before bloom.

If you are a great herb gardener, then you probably have more herbs than you know what to do with. I would say that is a great problem to have! There are many options to preserve the herbs you grow, so you can use them throughout the year, or maybe give them away. Drying is a great option. You can either air dry them, or dry them using a dehydrator, or even easier, a microwave. Dried herbs tend to be more potent than fresh. As a rule of thumb, use one teaspoon of dried herbs for every tablespoon of fresh herbs that you would need. You can also freeze your herbs to make them last longer. You can either flash freeze them on a cookie sheet, or you can chop them up, put them in ice cube trays, and fill them with water and freeze them. These herby ice cubes can get popped right into any recipe you are making, or even into your summer time iced tea.

You can find a lot more information on growing specific herbs, and on using and preserving herbs on the CSU Extension website, extension.colostate.edu. 

Soil Temperatures, Frosts and Planting Dates

Posted by Eric Hammond Adams County

As the first week of May comes to a close, impatient gardeners everywhere are asking, “Is it time to plant my tomatoes yet”? The answer to this question is probably, “Not just yet”.   

Appropriate planting times for vegetables are based on both air and soil temperatures.  Air temperature is fairly straightforward.  While cool season crops will tolerate varying degrees of cold weather, most warm season crops, like tomatoes, squash and peppers are tender - meaning they will not tolerate a frost.   It’s not difficult to look at the forecast and see if there is potential for freezing temperatures.  In fact, in my neck of the woods it looks like there is a good chance that we are going to have frost Monday morning.   However, even if the air temperature is not prohibitively cold, you also have to take soil temperatures into account.

The soil in my raised beds was around 52°F
this morning

If soil is too cold seeds may not germinate and transplants may be slow to establish and grow.  Ideal soil temperatures range from 45°F for crops like spinach or Fava beans to 70°F for many squash and melons.   Tomato transplants prefer a temperature between 60 -65°F.   I measured the temperature of the soil in my raised beds all week and temperatures ranged from 50°F to 52°F.  So, at least in my garden, the soil is too cool for tomatoes and many other warm season crops. 

The recent rains which have saturated Front Range soils will mean that they will be slower to warm, as more energy is needed to warm both the solid components of the soil and the water the soil is now holding, than would be required to warm the solid components alone if the soil were dry.





Soil Thermometer

Soil temperature can easily be measured with a thermometer.  They make specialized soil thermometers which you can purchase at many local garden centers or online.   You can also use a meat thermometer, though if you do I would recommend designating it as your full-time soil thermometer, retiring it from duty in the kitchen and buying a new one for your meats.  To measure the soil temperature for plant growth, insert the thermometer around 4 inches into the soil.  Temperature should be measured early in the morning, when the soil is its coolest, and you may want to take measurements from several locations. 

Insert the thermometer to a depth of about 4 inches

As mentioned in a previous blog, there are several ways you can speed the warming of soil in the spring, ranging from building raised beds to covering your beds with plastic.  

It’s not quite time to plant most warm season crops quite yet.  So, all you tomato junkies out there, watch the forecast for potential frosts, check your soil temperature and bide your time.  You’re almost there.

Warm soil jump starts spring

Posted by Carol O'Meara, Horticulture Entomologist, CSU Extension Boulder County

For gardeners, seeing the first, green shoots of spring is like hearing the NASCAR announcement “Gentlemen, start your engines.”  Our engines rumble, our minds become sharply focused.  We act like rookies on the line by digging a bit too early, our eagerness to get started getting the better of us.

If you’re itching to plant, get a jump on the season by warming your soil.  With a few simple tricks, you can get your spring salad off to a quick start.  Before you start, a note of caution:  make sure you’re not working wet soil.  Turning it can damage the tilth of soggy ground. 

One of the simplest ways to warm your soil is covering the ground with plastic sheets. Use 6 mil or thicker, UV resistant clear or black plastic and lay it over the soil, weighing down all edges with rocks or soil to prevent winds from whipping it up, up, and away to Kansas.  Alternately, you can anchor it down with wire U-shaped pins.

Check the soil after ten days to see if it’s warmer; for germination of cool season vegetables the minimum temperature needed is 40-degrees F.  Typically, it takes two to three weeks for it to rise, depending on the soil type. Sandy or manufactured "planters mix" soils warm faster than wet, heavy clay. 

If you’d like to speed the process, combine the plastic cover with an insulating layer.  Using only clear plastic, lay a sheet on the ground, anchoring it as described above.  Then drape a second layer of clear plastic slightly above the first, using bricks or other objects to make a small space between the two layers.  Anchor the second layer securely, by tucking its edges under the bricks or by weighing them down on the ground.

To plant, fold back the plastic drape and remove the plastic sheet covering the soil, cleaning, drying, and folding it away for use another time. Plant seeds of lettuce, radish, kale, collards, cabbage, broccoli, spinach, peas, onion and carrots and then replace the plastic drape over the spacers, creating an impromptu cold frame, anchoring the cover securely so it remains to keep the seeds snugly warm in the bed.  There is no need for a plastic sheet on the soil once seeds are planted.

Patience is required when warming the soil as seed take longer to germinate at minimum soil temperatures than they would later in the spring.  Leaving the plastic on until the temperatures have risen higher than 40 degrees won’t take much more time and you’ll be rewarded with better germination if you wait.   Monitor soil moisture and add water as needed.

Watch the weather and your plants closely; once the weather warms, the plastic tenting will trap heat and can reach temperatures hot enough to sizzle your plants.  Open the cover on sunny days, partially folding back the cover and clipping the flap to prevent it from whipping in the breeze and tearing.  Be sure to close the cover in the late afternoon to retain heat.

When the weather has warmed, remove the cover gradually over a week to harden off the seedlings.  Provide wind protection to keep the worst of spring away from them by making a low wall from straw bales or plastic.

Soil Microbes: Your Silent Partner in the Garden

Eric Hammond- Adams County Extension

When most people think of bacteria, fungi and amebas they think of ear infections, sniffley noses, antibiotics and brain-eating single celled organisms contracted from improper use of a “neti pot” (maybe that last one is just me).  However, the soil in your yard in garden is full of these microscopic organisms as well as many others like nematodes, algae and actinomycetes (a word which I have not once pronounced correctly in my entire public life).  As the soil warms this spring they are starting to become more active and for the most part they are doing great things for your lawn and garden. 



Actinomycetes



Nutrient Cycling (Mineralization)-

Soil microbes feed on organic material decomposing it.  As they do this nutrients are taken from complex forms which plants can’t adsorb (or at least do not commonly absorb) to simpler forms that they can.  For example, in plant material nitrogen is incorporated into the molecules making up the plant’s DNA, cell walls and other structures.  As soil microbes digest this material some of this nitrogen is released into the soil solution as ammonium or nitrate, the two forms of nitrogen commonly absorbed by plants.  Without soil microbes plant nutrients in organic matter would remain tied up in unavailable forms.

Mineralization nitrogen from organic forms to nitrate- diagram by Ray Daugherty

 

Soil Structure-

Both soil microbes and larger soil fauna help build structure in soils.  There are several mechanisms through which this happens.   Some soil life such as earthworms create large continuous pores through the soil allowing for increased and deeper infiltration of air and water into soil.  Soil microbes affect soil structure by producing compounds that act as binding agents.  These compounds help the various elements of the soil (groups of clay platelets, chunks of organic matter, granules of sand and etc) aggregate, forming structures with a good mix of smaller pores that the can hold water against gravity and larger pores which drain rapidly and are commonly filled with air.

Desirable soil structure has a variety of pore sizes

Plant Symbiotic Microbes-

Some microbes have symbiotic relationships with plants.  Generally these relationships involve the exchange of carbohydrates from the plants in return for nutrients or water from the soil microbes.  The two most common examples of these types of soil microorganisms are Mycorrhizal fungi and Rhizobia.   Mycorrhizae are a group of symbiotic fungi that grow in association with plant roots.  They receive carbohydrates from the plant and in return supply the plant with water and nutrients- most commonly micronutrients and phosphorus.  The fungi are better able to extract tightly held soil water and less soluble forms of some of these nutrients than the plant.  It should also be noted that these relationships are species specific.  A given species of Mycorrhizae form symbiotic relationships with specific groups of plants.  Rhizobia are a group of bacteria which colonize the roots of the legume family.  They are capable of fixing gaseous atmospheric nitrogen into a form that the host plant can use.  In return the plant supplies them with carbohydrates.

The white hairs are Mycorrhizal fungi

Encouraging Beneficial Soil Life

There are a few simple things that we can do as gardeners to encourage these beneficial soil organisms.  Happily, many of them are things we already do to encourage good health in our plants (what a coincidence). 

1) Provide a good habitat-

Soil microbes need both food (organic material) and oxygen to complete their life cycles.  In natural systems, organic matter is added each year through natural cycles (think of leaves dropping in the fall in a forest).  In some portions of urban landscapes we can adopt practices that mimic this.  For example, we can leave grass clippings on the lawn or mulch leaves into the turf in the fall instead of raking them up.  In other areas, like a vegetable garden, organic matter must be added to replace that consumed by soil microbes.  Generally 2”-3” of plant based compost or 1” of manure tilled in at least 8” deep is the recommended application rate for vegetable gardens or annual flower beds (more information here). 

Potential soil organic matter is often removed from landscapes

Soil microbes need oxygen to perform respiration (the process which turns carbohydrates into energy).  So taking steps to alleviate and\or avoid soil compaction (which reduces the amount and size of large air-holding pores) such as regular aeration of lawns, raised bed gardening and using wood mulch around perennial beds, trees and shrubs may also encourage beneficial microbes.

Basic formula for respiration

2) Avoid excessive tilling or other disturbances when possible especially if the soil is very wet-

Such practices can have a number of negative effects on soil microbial populations.  They can destroy aggregates, degrading the soil’s structure, which in turn can create issues with aeration and drainage.  This is especially true if a more aggressive form of tilling such as rototilling is used at a time when soil aggregates are already fragile, such as when they are very wet.  Such practices also increase the rate of decomposition of soil organic matter by exposing it to the oxygen in the atmosphere.   Excessive tilling can also harm soil microbes by physically damaging them.  Fungi and actinomycetes are particularly at risk because of their larger thread-like bodies.

This is the great paradox of organic amendments and soil life.   There are situations where we need to add them to the soil regularly to replenish soil organic matter.  However, in doing so we are disturbing soil life and degrading its habitat.  We can minimize the damage by using less destructive methods to amend.  For example, instead of using a rototiller to mix in annual amendments, consider an old fashioned shovel or a broadfork (there are several informative videos about the use of broadforks that can he found here -no endorsement or criticism of these specific products is implied).

Broadfork

There is a lot of discussion about whether or not inoculating your soil with microbes is helpful.  I won’t rehash it here, but you can find a bunch of discussion about it on the garden professors blog.  Here is my attempt to sum up the topic in few sentences:  If the soil has conditions favorable to beneficial soil life (well aerated, moist and has adequate organic matter) you probably already have a healthy population of soil microbes or will develop one over time.  If a soil is low in organic matter and\or is poorly aerated any soil microbes which you add are unlikely to thrive anyway.    

There are some proven benefits to specific inoculations.  For example in a first time garden inoculating the soil with Rhizobia maybe beneficial if you are growing beans peas or other legumes.  Likewise specific species of Mycorrhizae may be used to aid in the production of specific plants, however, research on their wider use is mixed.

More information on soil life can be found in Colorado Master Gardener Garden Note #212