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Showing posts with label thatch. Show all posts
Showing posts with label thatch. Show all posts

Friday, December 29, 2017

Lawn Winterkill: Lessons from 2016-'17

Tony Koski' Extension Turf Specialist


It’s been a dry fall and early winter throughout most of Colorado – in spite of the recent snow (that’s rapidly disappearing as I write this today). Little precipitation, combined with windy, sunny, and warm days, is a pretty good recipe for some winter turf injury (aka “winterkill”). Throw in some alternating extreme cold with the warm days and things get potentially worse for turf, trees, and shrubs in our landscapes. But not all “winterkill” is the same when it comes to turf. Here are some examples from the spring of 2017 (these were all in April/May) to illustrate that point.

Winter injury from drought – enhanced by VERY thick thatch in this bluegrass lawn. Note that the green turf is where water was supplied by a gutter downspout, runoff from the driveway (plus the concrete acts as a “mulch” for turf growing alongside it), and runoff from the neighbor’s gravel-covered plastic.



This lawn had been sodded in early 2016 and was perfectly green and healthy going into the winter of
Dead area is where home construction had been "staged",
resulting in extreme soil compaction before sodding.
2016. It had been handwatered religiously throughout 2016, was mowed the correct height, and was otherwise perfectly cared for. The problem was the soil under the sod. The dead area was where home construction was “staged”: lumber, roofing, tile, other building supplies were dropped off – along with concentrated, heavy, constant traffic. The soil was not tilled sufficiently prior to sodding, so almost no rooting occurred following sodding. The constant handwatering in 2016 kept it alive and looking perfect, but the lack of rooting during the winter resulted in winter desiccation and sod death in spring 2017.
Sod had not rooted into the compacted soil, which
lead to winter kill in spring 2017.

Winter mite injury
This lawn suffered from turfgrass mite feeding in the late winter and early spring. Mite feeding and reproduction is favored by dry conditions. Drought-stressed turf is often killed by mite feeding in the spring if numbers are high enough and no snowcover or spring rains occur – and if winter watering isn’t performed at least a few times during the winter.

The common thread here? Water! Turf, trees, shrubs, and other landscape plants may not be growing and thus USING much water during the winter. But when it’s dry, windy, sunny, and humidity is low, our landscape plants are LOSING water. When we don’t receive enough snow to provide periods of snow cover during the winter, and plants aren’t mulched (like turf!), are young and not fully established, or have poorly developed root systems, winter watering can be essential for preventing winter injury or death.

When weather allows (above freezing for a day or two), run a hose and sprinkler out to the drier parts of your landscape (especially south- and west-facing parts of your landscape), to new sod, trees, and shrubs, and to areas where you have experienced winter injury in the past (perhaps from turf mites). Apply enough water to moisten the crowns of the turf plants and to get some water into the root zone of new trees and shrubs. The goal isn’t deep watering, but rather to prevent desiccation of crowns and young root systems.

Friday, April 24, 2015

Aeration Done Right

Posted by: Alison O'Connor, horticulture agent in Larimer County

I'm first to admit that when I give advice it's a "do as I say, not as I do" recommendation. When it comes to lawn aeration (AKA core cultivation), Extension recommends that you aerate at least once a year, twice if you can afford it. The last time I aerated was...well...a few years ago. I did it myself (with the help of burly men to help lift the machine) and it was, quite frankly, an effort!
Aeration is the best!
Last week I was driving by a park in Windsor and saw someone aerating the turf. I was impressed by how great of a job he was doing, so I stopped to chat. It turns out that Mike McFadden, of Barefoot Farms in Windsor, is passionate about doing aeration correctly. After talking for a few minutes, I hired him to aerate my under-aerated turf the following day.

What Mike probably didn't realize is that I'd be photographing him. So thanks to Mike for his willingness to be the subject of this blog.
Mike McFadden of Barefoot Farms
Why should you aerate? For many reasons, including better water infiltration to the turf root system, to combat thatch build-up, to allow for better oxygen exchange for roots and to add organic matter to your lawn and soil. And it helps alleviate soil compaction.

Steps to aerating correctly:

1. Water your lawn a couple days prior to the aeration event. In order to pull deep plugs, the lawn should have good moisture. If the lawn is too dry, the plugs pulled will be very short or the machine will simply bounce around the surface.

2. Before you start aeration, mark your sprinkler heads. I used somewhat unorthodox markers, simply because I didn't have flags. But it's very easy to hit a sprinkler head with the machine. The aeration machine generally has one speed--fast--and they aren't very easy to maneuver.
The tree stump and mini American flag mark sprinkler heads.
The design of my irrigation system is another story...
3. The goal of aeration is to "Swiss cheese" the lawn--make as many aeration holes as possible. Up, down, back and forth, horizontally, vertically, diagonally. Try to get the holes on 2" centers. If the plugs are 2-3" deep, this is also excellent. This is where commercial aeration may fall short if they only make one pass. One pass tends to result in very few holes several inches apart and quite frankly, does nothing to improve the health of your turf, except that it makes you feel good that you aerated. Following aeration, your lawn should look beat up and ugly. This will pass in time. In the long run, aeration is incredibly beneficial. (As a note, Mike made four passes on my lawn.)
A lovely little plug. Not too much thatch and 2-3" long.
4.  If you rent equipment, you have the luxury of being able to control how many passes you make. Honestly, you can't make too many holes. Ok, well if your lawn is mud following aeration, maybe you made a few too many. But really--the more holes the better!
Lots and lots and lots and lots of holes is key.
5. Leave the cores on the lawn once you're finished. If you can't stand the sight of them, then rake them up and put them in your compost pile--don't throw them away. They are full of wonderful organic matter. If you leave the cores, they will break down with a few mowings.

6. Need to seed or fertilize? It's the P-E-R-F-E-C-T time following aeration. The holes you just created are ideal "germination chambers" for seed. Seed that drops into the holes will stay moist, have good contact with soil and be protected during germination. Fertilizer will also reach turf roots better following aeration (be sure to water it in). On a side note, if you applied crabgrass preventer to your lawn this spring, wait until August to seed--the crabgrass preventer will kill seedling grass.

It took Mike about 35 minutes to aerate my 3,000 square foot lawn. And I was thrilled with the result. He did mention that I have a much heavier thatch layer in my front yard (oops) and that doing it again in fall would be wise. So if it's been a few years, do your lawn a favor and aerate! It does the lawn good.
The chickens loved the freshly disturbed earth and had a heyday with worm bits.