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Showing posts with label phenology. Show all posts
Showing posts with label phenology. Show all posts

Wednesday, April 6, 2022

Spring Frosts and Fruit Tree Buds

 

By Amy Lentz, Boulder County CSU Extension

One can grow several different types of fruit trees in Colorado with some performing better than others depending on where and at what elevation you live. Along the Front Range, apples and cherries used to be staple industries prior to the 1950’s. A few rough weather years along with changing market forces moved the industries to other states, but these types of fruit trees along with pears and plums can be quite fruitful (pardon the pun) along the Front Range. Other types of fruit trees will struggle in this region to produce a crop, whereas if you are on the Western Slope, several different types of fruit trees will give you a dependable fruit crop due to the benefit of warmer winds…perfect for growing those coveted peaches.

A lot of the potential to get a decent harvest from a fruit tree in Colorado boils down to phenology. What’s that, you ask? Phenology is a branch of science dealing with the relationship between climate and periodic biological phenomena (definition from Merriam-Webster) such as bird migrations and, in this case, flowering patterns of plants. In more simple terms, this is often referred to as bloom stage or growth stage. Fruit trees will go through various bloom stages as they wake up each spring. For example, apple trees have nine stages of blooms from dormant to fruit set as seen in this pictorial chart from Cornell University:

Apple Phenology Chart - Cornell University
Apple Phenology Chart - Cornell University

Back to why it’s not easy to have a productive fruit tree in Colorado…springtime frosts! It’s safe to say that you never know when that last spring frost will come in Colorado. And when it does, how low will it go? This is the key to whether or not you will get a decent fruit crop from year to year – it’s the combination of the low temperatures experienced in the spring and the stage of bloom at that time. For example, if your leaves and/or flowers are just starting to emerge (at the ‘green tip’ stage of development), your tree’s flower buds can take some pretty low temperatures and can easily survive a light frost. However, if you tree is in full bloom, you will lose many of those flowers if the temperatures dip a just a few degrees below freezing. The following chart shows the various bloom stages for tart and sweet cherry and peaches:

% Bloom Loss vs. Temperature vs. Bloom Stage - Utah State University
% Bloom Loss vs. Temperature vs. Bloom Stage - Utah State University

Notice for tart cherries that even at temperatures down to 15° F, only 10% of the blooms will be damaged or killed if they are just swollen and have not broken through yet. Conversely, with that same tree in full bloom, you will see around 90% of the blooms (and future fruit) damaged or killed if the temperature gets down to just 25° F. The relationship is similar for peaches and other fruit trees, as well. Simply put, the further along in bloom, the more susceptible the buds are to being killed by a spring frost.

Undamaged peach flower bud compared to damaged bud after exposure to very low temperatures (-15°F). Photos: Amy Lentz

Throw in crazy Colorado weather and it’s a fool’s bet! The timing of these stages will vary from year to year, making it hard to predict when your tree will be in full bloom. The following photos were taken in the Fort Collins area in 2017 for an apple tree. The dates of each stage of flower are marked above each picture taken of the same branch over time. Just one year later in 2018, the same tree was more than two weeks later in its timing for each bloom stage.




Pink Stage occurred on April 12, 2017. In 2018, the same stage occurred about 16 days later, showing up on April 28th. Photos: Amy Lentz

There are not many options to outsmart Mother Nature and prevent your fruit tree from receiving some damage during a spring frost and some trees will fare better than others. Apricots are usually the first to bloom, followed by peaches, cherries, plums, pears and apples will usually be last. Here is one tip if you haven’t yet planted your tree…place it on the north or northeast side of a structure or house; close enough that it’s shaded in the winter and far enough that it’s in full sun later in the summer when the sun is higher in the sky. This can provide more consistent winter temperatures, hopefully keeping the tree dormant for just a bit longer and delaying flower development. Even a week of two can make all the difference!



Saturday, March 23, 2013

What does phenology have to do with crabgrass!?

By Alison O'Connor, Horticulture Agent, Larimer County

Since our CSU Rams just lost in the NCAA basketball tournament (and my Cyclones were just robbed by my other alma mater on a buzzer beater), I texted the Turf Man, Tony Koski, about when to apply my pre-emergence herbicide (yes, slow day here in northern Colorado).  Turns out that there's a really cool trick you can use to time your application: using the blooming time of certain landscape plants.  This, boys and girls, is what's known as phenology.  Don't you love science?

Phenology is officially defined as, "The scientific study of periodic biological phenomena, such as flowering, breeding and migration, in relation to climatic conditions" (courtesy of www.thefreedictionary.com). 

There's been several scientific studies, summed up nicely here in this Purdue article, about what plants can be reliable indicators of when to apply your crabgrass preventer.  One is the glorious golden yellow blooms of forsythia...another is the white blossoms of Callery pear...and another are those dainty pink (or white) redbud flowers.  When these plants are in bloom, or near bloom, it's time to apply your crabgrass preventer.  To me, this is SO much easier than calculating degree days or measuring soil temperature.  Or asking Tony every year...

I was just in Portland earlier this week visiting family, and their forsythia were in full bloom.  I hope my brother put down his crabgrass preventer.  But somehow, since he has a one-year-old, I'm guessing it was put on the back burner...

The wonderful Oregon Garden in Silverton.  Look at those magnificent forsythia!
It's important to remember that you have a window of time to get this done.  Tony recommends that you apply your crabgrass preventer by April 1 in Denver, April 15 in Fort Collins and ASAP if you're further south or on the west slope.  Just remember, these products need 0.5 to 1" of water after application to make 'em work.  

In the meantime, enjoy the snow and look for those blooms...a sure sign that spring is coming!